aldy next Gen

Weddings by nature are very beautiful background scenery. This scene was carefully planned and set the time before the big day. For these reasons, we want to get involved in our photos, that is, not only have theme pictures lit up by our flash, but everything else behind in the shadows. This is called a miner light. You also do not want to be just a shooting at a very high ISO entire wedding without a flash. It is a good technique for some photos, but many times it makes the pictures look like they are cut from a larger image. Another reason we do not want to use this technique for all of our photos, because sometimes it's quick action that we need to capture, in which subjects do not want to face out of focus. So how do we shoot in low light conditions and backgrounds are visible, but our respondents also correctly exposed, without the harsh shadows and sharp focus? Answer is bouncing our flash.

properly expose your wedding couple and not have a Flash production harsh shadows on your face, you need a larger source of light. Remember, the larger the light source, softer shadows. So when you use an umbrella shadows are so nice and soft, umbrella and a light source that is much larger than your flash. That's the way it is and there is no way around it. These little cups that you put on your flash does not make the shadows softer, they're just even out the light, so there is no focus. Other light modifiers you see does not increase the size of the light sources. Examples of this can be a big Tupperware looking for things to see, or a bounce card. But he should be even softer shadows with a larger light source? What do you think about the size of a wall or ceiling? This is what healthy your flash: turn on your flash head so that the light first bounces off the wall, ceiling, people, etc., before hitting their subjects. This increases the size of your light sources. I like to bounce my flash off the corner, if possible, the corners where the walls meet the ceiling produces some very nice results. If you have an assistant, make sure your server is bouncing the light for you. Now you only need to worry about his communication with your assistant camera lights. If wireless, or are connected via cable, no problem. If the Nikon or Canon system is installed, you only need to check your flash can not see each other.

now bouncing your flash to work in low light conditions, it should not have bumped your ISO to 1600. It's a big difference from 3200 and more, and with the cameras today, wheat in 1600 is not too noticeable. Also, you have to shoot to get the 2.8 ambient light. This is a big bonus bouncing your flash, except that soft shadows, the background displayed on your ambient light. Adjust the camera settings, so you underexposing ambient light 2-3 stops for good results. In this way, the flash properly exposes its objects as they are the dominant element of photography, and the background is also exposed, but a little darker, rather than compete for attention. Do not worry about your shutter speed is below 60, because the flash will freeze action. If people are dancing fast, and you're shooting a couple weddings and have the flash bouncing off to expose their faces you'll see it flash froze action on their faces and are in sharp fokus.Ljudi in the background can be blurred, since they are exposed to ambient light. This makes for some interesting and creative photos. On the dance floor my setting can be ISO 1600, F2.8, and 10 or 20-speed shutter. Please remember as you are shooting 2.8 May you need to compose, or pose your subjects so that what you want to be in focus is truly in the spotlight!

Try bouncing your flash at the next wedding shoot and see if you like the results. Thanks for reading!